Here is a new forum open to a reader, this time on a subject that we have little knowledge of: watchmaking. Luc being a watchmaker: you will be in good hands! To know our opinion on 50 watch brands, it’s here .
HOW TO CHOOSE YOUR WATCH?
We sometimes hear it said that “the watch is man’s only jewel”.
It is true that the watch is a strong accessory in an outfit: it can perfect the latter as well as demolish all the elegance that you have somehow tried to build … The watch must therefore be chosen with care, otherwise it is better not to not wear it!
It must sign your personality, beyond notions of good or bad taste: you must love it . It’s a bit like choosing a perfume : it should not be an object to “have” to put on your wrist to finalize your outfit but, on the contrary, it must integrate into your look as if it were part of you. .
When we see you, it’s not the thing to see first . But it is a detail that should be noted and which should bring a positive note. It seems that women (and men too for that matter) pay particular attention to this accessory / jewel because it allows them to better understand the personality and social status of their interlocutor.
FIRST, SOME BASIC VOCABULARY
1 – Bracelet
2 – Horn (allows the bracelet to be attached)
3 – Round shaped case . There are all shapes (square, triangular …) and all materials (plastic, gold, platinum, aluminum …)
4 – Crown (allows setting the time, date, winding)
5 – Index (the numbers 1, 2, 3 … and the graduations)
6 – The name of the brand , the logo
7 – The small second (we can find a central second otherwise)
8 – Blued hands
9, 10 and 11: Complications : information given by the watch other than the time
9 – Date (the date)
10 – Power reserve (how much time remains before having to wind the watch)
11 – Phases of the moon
12 – Dial (plate on which we find the patterns; below is the movement, the “engine” of the watch)
WHICH WATCH TO CHOOSE?
There are 2 types of watches: “mechanical” or “quartz”
Mechanical watches suffer from a “grandpa watch” image among the general public. And yet, there are many innovative designs among this type of watch (sometimes too futuristic even). However, to have quality, it is absolutely necessary to aim for the top of the range.
Exit therefore Russian mechanical watches, Eastern Europe or elsewhere! Indeed, they are made with poor quality steels and the design causes the parts to mesh badly with each other… They will break very quickly and will sometimes be irreparable.
Today, buying a quality mechanical watch that will give you style therefore requires a high budget: more than a thousand euros … to purchase. Indeed, it is also necessary to take into account the maintenance: a complete overhaul every 3 to 5 years maximum, that is to say from 500 € to 5000 € (even more) in the top of the range. And I am not even talking about the waiting times which can be very long.
This is not necessarily valid for vintage, but then you have to have a little knowledge and passion to recognize good deals. This is also not valid for the few watches containing ETA movements (ETA is a company that produces watch components and movements), which have the advantage of sometimes having a nice design and always Swiss quality mechanics, for 150-500 €.
I immediately take a break from the high-end watches that are sold like hotcakes: some luxury brands sell more than a million watches a year in the world … I doubt – but it is only one personal opinion – that having such a watch on your wrist, despite its generally high price, can allow you to really assert your personality and your originality.
Movements Lange und Sohne, very good German brand, you will notice the finishes
Among mechanical watches, there are also manually wound watches and automatic ones.
An automatic watch is equipped with a set of parts called an “automatic module” which allows the watch to be wound (“to restore energy to the engine”) according to the movements of the wrist during the day. We put our watch down before going to bed, and normally we take it back the next morning and it still works. No need to wind it unless it has not been worn for a few hours / days (depending on the power reserve of the watch). We must therefore move for it to work!
A hand-wound watch must be wound daily to work. You just have to turn the crown (it takes less than a minute in the morning and in the evening) to energize the watch.
An automatic watch therefore offers an undeniable advantage and ease of use for not much more than a manual winding watch.
QUARTZ (OR “BATTERY”) WATCHES
Quartz watches have a significant advantage over mechanical watches: they are ultra precise . The quartz movement, even Chinese at less than € 10, remains more precise than the high-end movement at € 50,000.
Another positive point: there are correct ones in all ranges: from 50 to 500 €, you have a really wide range of choices. The budget is therefore more affordable and the maintenance consists of a stupid change of battery which will cost you 10 € (we sometimes change the entire movement, it costs 20 to 100 €). Be careful, in the high end it is a complete overhaul that will be billed to you, so count at least 300 €, or even much more.
Girard Perregaux and Omega quartz movements (top of the range). We can see the battery.
Tomorrow on the blog, the continuation of Luc’s watch dossier, with the theme: which style of watch to choose ?